Reisetagebuch I — Selou Sowe

Route map — Córdoba to La Paz

Reisetagebuch I (2019–2021)

Bicycle journey
Start: Córdoba, Argentina — Destination: La Paz, Bolivia
Distance: 3922.57 km
29.04.2019 – 16.09.2019

Reisetagebuch I Auszug (2021)
Essay, 7064 words

The Essay is an Excerpt of my travel diary. An attempt to cross a plateau at 4,200 m ends when a sandstorm makes it physically impossible to continue. This is used as a departure for a sustained meditation on control, complexity, and what it means to be alive inside a system larger than yourself.

The central tension the essay works through is between two fundamentally different ways of understanding existence: one rooted in indigenous Andean thought, specifically Pachamama as the self-generating, nonlinear totality of life, and one rooted in the Western colonial tradition, with its fantasy of omniscient control (the Laplacian Demon), its patriarchal god made in man's image, and its compulsion to subdue and simplify whatever it cannot predict. What Western science has arrived at is a picture of reality far closer to Pachamama than to a central, almighty and patriarchal, Intelligence. The worldview colonial powers imposed by force as self-evident truth, dismissing indigenous cosmologies as primitive superstition, turns out to be the less coherent one. Life, by its nature as a nonlinear complex system, resists exactly the kind of reduction control requires.

This argument runs through several registers: Heisenberg's uncertainty principle, Erich Fromm's psychoanalysis of patriarchal necrophilia, Wolf Singer's neuroscience of consciousness as decentralised and emergent, fractal geometry, the history of urbanisation. What holds it together is a consistent underlying claim: that the drive to control living complexity is rooted in a felt impotence. The essay pushes this further: there is no self that stands apart from nature and steers it. Man is not the sovereign subject of the world but part of its fabric, shaped by the same processes he imagines himself to dominate. The entire premise of control, and with it white supremacy, extractive capitalism, colonial hierarchy, collapses from the inside.

The essay ends with geological time: mass extinctions as the condition for new complexity. What is dying is not framed as a tragedy to be reversed so much as a transformation whose terms we might still influence, not by seizing control, but by changing the local rules of interaction that determine how complex systems organise themselves.

Sun-bleached skeletal remains of a horse on a dry riverbed
Eroded sandstone canyon with desert scrub, Andean foothills
Tall eroded rock spire standing alone against a clear sky
Close-up diptych of cracked, wind-eroded mud rock texture
Twin rock pillars rising from the desert floor
Valley view with red mineral-streaked slopes and a dirt road
Wide mountain pass with a paved road curving through colourful hills
Cyclist resting beside a loaded touring bike on a gravel mountain road
Satellite map of volcanic terrain with the route marked in blue
High valley view with patches of snow and a winding road below
Wide desert basin criss-crossed by dirt roads, mountains beyond
Tent and loaded bicycle at sunrise on the salt flat
Cactus-covered rock outcrop overlooking the white salt flat
Flat white expanse of the salt flat stretching to distant mountains
Satellite map of volcanic craters near the route, marked in blue
Satellite map of dark volcanic terrain the route crosses
Satellite map of a salt flat with geometric evaporation ponds
Jagged dark mountain ridge above a cactus-dotted plain
Diptych of pale sandstone spires and rippled rock texture
Sawtooth mountain ridge silhouetted against a cloud-streaked sky
Night sky showing the Milky Way's galactic core
Aerial view of a vast grid of green and brown farmland
Aerial view where farmland gives way to a dense city skyline
Street view looking up at an Art Deco-style skyscraper between glass towers
Street view of glass office towers at dusk, one marked with a bank logo
Row of modern blue-glass apartment towers against a clear sky
Close view looking up at balconied apartment towers
Hotel room with a city view through the window
Night satellite view of a coastal city's illuminated street grid
Night satellite view of a city with roads radiating from its centre
Night satellite view of scattered city lights across dark terrain
Night satellite view of a dense, brightly lit city centre